When it comes to constellations revealing themselves, it turns out that Point Pelee is a reasonable stand-in for Bobcaygeon.
I know this because it is 11 pm, and I’m lying on a Lake Erie beach mesmerized by countless stars scattered across a gigantic sky.
Point Pelee National Park, a sandy spit jutting into the lake, is the southernmost point of the Canadian mainland. It is also a dark sky preserve.
There's no moon tonight, the weather gods have graced us with a mostly clear sky, and Tragically Hip is running through my head.
My husband and I have become star chasers in recent years. The serendipity of a convertible and a back road in Hawaii turned us on to the marvels of the night skies. Since then, the opportunity to look up continues to lure us into nature.
The truth is, I’m not an astronomer. I really don’t care much about planets, let alone constellations, and I’ve fallen asleep in every planetarium I’ve ever visited. But the sheer beauty of the night sky – especially reflected over dark water – well, that’s something else.
Plus, Point Pelee offers the chance to sleep in a yurt. Who could resist?
It’s not exactly a yurt. The park describes it as a cross between an A-frame cabin and a prospector tent and has christened it with the vaguely baffling name oTENTik. Beyond the odd name, however, they’ve done everything right.
For anyone wanting the joy of sleeping in the middle of a national park without the hassle or deprivation of tenting, the yurts are perfect.
Built atop a wooden deck, they offer heat, electricity and indoor sleeping space for as many as six. There’s also a wooden table with six chairs and a stainless-steel food prep area equipped with basic dishes, utensils and pots and pans.
A deck area holds two bright red Adirondak chairs, where I sit to sip my morning coffee and watch the woodpeckers flit among the trees. A firepit, picnic table and gas barbeque round out the amenities.
Beyond the relative comforts of the space, the yurt offers a chance for immersion in a place of fabulous beauty.
Bald eagles overhead
For nature lovers, Point Pelee’s marsh is its central attraction.
One of the largest remaining marshes in southern Ontario, it is home to all manner of quacking, flying, crawling, slithering and swimming things.
Today, a family of wood ducks float into the cattails while less-skittish mallards splash energetically, using the marsh as an oversized birdbath. Two bald eagles soar overhead while schools of silvery minnows dart away from our shadows.
We are circling through the marsh on a one-kilometre wooden boardwalk, binoculars in hand. Plenty of benches offer us a chance to sit quietly and wait for the sounds and sights of nature to resume around us.
Along with the boardwalk, a tower offers a scenic marsh overlook. And for those looking for a water-level adventure, the park offers kayak and canoe rentals and launch areas.
Point Pelee’s other not-to-be-missed attraction is its gorgeous, sandy tip – the official spot where Canada’s mainland ends.
Between the marsh and the tip are biking trails, hiking trails and boardwalks meandering through the park’s various ecosystems. And, of course, beaches.
Our perfect stargazing beach was a stunning sunset beach only a few hours ago.
Most of the west side of the 15-kilometre-long park is sandy beachfront, with well-maintained washrooms and changerooms in a number of locations.
We’ve brought our kayaks to the park in the past, but for a late October visit, we opt for bicycles instead. They turn out to be an ideal way to explore during the quiet off-season.
We zip from trail to tip to beach, then back to the campground, where 24 yurts offer the park’s only accommodation option.
From a parking area, we load our supplies into a wagon for a short walk into the forest and our yurt. Spaced out and oriented away from one another, the buildings maximize a sense of privacy and seclusion.
Still, they’re all only a short walk from a central building with washroom, shower and dishwashing facilities.
We’ve opted for minimal hassle and gear, bringing only bedding and easy-to-prepare food. But crazy as it sounds, I’d probably take advantage of the electricity to throw in a small coffeemaker next time around.
Between sunset and stargazing is the perfect time for a campfire and the sticky-finger indulgence of roasted marshmallows.
Eventually, it’s dark enough to take a cup of hot tea and an armful of blankets to the beach. But first, we switch on the yurt’s gas-powered stove, setting the thermostat to a balmy 24 degrees.
This is definitely my style of camping. I’m already planning a return trip with snowshoes in hand. No doubt we’ll have a national park to ourselves once the gates close for the day. And just imagine the stargazing.
If you go:
- Point Pelee National Park is a bit over 300 km from Oakville. Follow the 401 towards Windsor, then look for signs for Leamington and Point Pelee.
- You can currently rent Point Pelee yurts until March 2023 for $128 per night. At some point, rentals will open for next season, although that date is not yet set. Accessible and pet-friendly yurts are also available.